Out of it in Africa : The first three days acclimatising. And a birthday.

Climbing Kilimanjaro takes you through several distinct vegetation zones. The first is the Cultivation Zone, where we drove through lush fields of vegetables. Carrots, onions, beans, peas, coffee beans, papaya and bananas.

The mini-van dropped us at the start of the Lemoshu Route, which is also the start of our Northern Circuit Route, on the western side of the mountain. We immediately started steeply uphill on a well-formed path. This marked the start of the Rain Forest Zone, and we walked through a forest of huge trees and verdant undergrowth. The track was lined with flowers. Everything was dripping in the low mist. Blue and Colobus monkeys chattered and swung around in the trees. “Pole pole” – pronounced poly poly, became our mantra for the next nine days. It means slowly slowly and allows the body to acclimatize. Slow suited us perfectly.

We reached the first overnight stop, Forest Camp, in good time. There were several other parties in attendance, and a resident tame monkey. A white-necked raven flew away with a pound of butter from someone’s kitchen tent. Our cook, Willium, produced the first meal, which was exceptional and set the theme for the rest of the trip. We weren’t likely to lose weight on this trek. We were delighted to find a proper portable sit-down toilet in the toilet tent. One of our 19 porters had the unenviable job of carrying and looking after it all for nine days. The porters carried their 20 kg loads mostly balanced on top of their heads.

Innocent pouring hot water for end of day wash.

Guide Joseph doing a health check.

Day 2 of the climb

Our guides, led by chief guide Ewarld, took us up through the forest to the next vegetation layer, the Moorland Zone.

We left the forest behind and trekked up through low scrub, hebes and proteas. We passed two national park employees picking up rubbish.

As we made around the western slopes, Kilimanjaro came in to view, loads of snow on top. A gecko with orange diamonds on its back climbed on a branch of Erica Arboreus. Our stop for the night was Shira Camp, on the edge of Shira Plateau, and beside a clear mountain stream. Someone narrowly avoided a US $100 fine when he thought he might have a wash in an inviting pool.

Clare signing in at the Park Rangers office

Kevin getting his boots and trousers dusted at the day end.

We had formal introductions to all the porters and staff, followed by enthusiastic singing and dancing. It was a great show.

Kili glowed in the setting sun and later a full moon rose over the summit. Magic.

Day 7

Kevin’s Birthday. We wandered through boulder fields to the Shira 2 Camp at 3850 metres. Unbelievably we crossed a road! This was an emergency access road to evacuate people with altitude sickness. Vegetation was becoming sparse, but there were still many flowers, a mouse, and a huge giant Lobelia. Willium, the cook, produced an amazing cake for Kevin complete with icing and candles. Balloons decorated the tent. The porters followed through with a rousing version of “Happy Birthday” and dancing.